From , each administered a smart thermostat pilot in their territory. Although several major thermostat manufacturers today, including Honeywell and Ecobee, offer schedule-learning features, the utilities chose the Nest as a representative smart thermostat because it was the only thermostat with built-in occupancy sensing and schedule-learning algorithms at the time.
They administered their pilots to a combined total of 1, gas and electric customers, making this study the largest of its kind. For the two utilities combined, we found that, on average, Nest thermostats cut gas used for heating by The study assessed the savings on electric resistance backup heat in homes with heat pumps, and found that homes with a Nest thermostat reduced electricity used for heating by 12 percent. With initial findings showing promise for energy savings with smart thermostats, utilities nationwide are beginning to look at leveraging smart thermostat technology further by pairing them with other energy-efficiency programs.
Here are some of the ways utilities are using smart thermostats to provide even more energy savings potential and control options to customers:. Smart thermostats provide a platform for utilities to administer direct load control and behavioral demand response programs that can reduce peak demand. They also have the potential to provide better comfort and greater savings during demand response events. Because smart thermostats collect historical HVAC runtime and time-to-temperature data, they have the potential to optimize the length of pre-cooling events to ensure comfort, while avoiding over-cooling.
Cadmus is currently evaluating the impacts of different styles of pre-cooling events implemented with smart thermostats. This information could increase engagement among users and result in energy-efficient behavior beyond the HVAC system. Smart thermostats collect small-interval data that can be used to diagnose poorly performing HVAC systems or leaky homes.
They collect HVAC runtime, indoor temperature, outdoor temperature, setpoints, and system mode—often in intervals as short as one minute. By identifying opportunities for energy-efficiency improvements, smart thermostats could help utilities target energy-efficiency program offerings to the appropriate customers.
Smart thermostats are just one technology among a variety of emerging intelligent devices for the home. When these devices talk to one another, the potential for energy savings is great. Examples of connected devices that could work with smart thermostats include smart window shades, ceiling fans, and lighting. These devices can share information with one another on occupancy, light levels, and current electricity rates to optimize energy usage.
You will need to unscrew each wire from the terminal and unscrew the wall mount as well. The wall mount will typically have one screw on each side. Check to see if the current drywall anchors align with the new thermostat wall mount. Place the new thermostat flush with the wall and mark the holes on the wall with a pencil or marker.
Note: The drill bit will need to be smaller than the screws provided with the new thermostat. If needed, insert the drywall anchors. After the holes have been drilled, screw the new thermostat's back plate onto the wall. Feed the wires through the hole in the back of the thermostat, and you will be ready to re-wire the new thermostat. Refer to the picture or notes to ensure the correct wire is connected. In some cases, you will have an extra wire. The extra wires are the wires that were not connected to the old thermostat.
This is ok and you do not have to worry about the exposed wires. Insert the compatible batteries, then snap the faceplate onto the front of the new thermostat. Consult the user manual if you run into any issues attaching the faceplate. With the new thermostat attached, you will want to confirm the installation was done correctly.
Restore the power to the HVAC system. Turn the heating and air system back on and test the thermostat. To do this, just turn the thermostat to a temperature higher or lower than the current temperature. Within a few moments, you should hear the HVAC system's fan fire up. If nothing happens, cut off power to the system and check the wiring. Feel free to call HomElectrical at and we will be glad to answer any questions you may have.
An experienced media expert with a proven track-record of public relations and communications work since Anything you need, he can supply. From social media content and graphics to SEO-focused product spotlights, Tyler can do it all. Step 1: Carefully Select New Thermostat. Important: Turn off all power to the heating and cooling system prior to doing any electrical work to avoid any chance of electrocution or injury.
The yellow heatshrink tube on the left is a voltage regulator, but it does not generate comparable heat. The solution I am trying is to put the whole thing behind the wall mounting plate, so literally inside the wall I have brick and mortar walls. For this to be a bit more maintainable, I soldered a connector to the thermostat.
Simulating steps on a quadrature encoder that has a real encoder attached is a bit tricky. I will add some explanations here because I think that is the interesting part. This project is pretty much finished but I will add more data and videos.
I am still figuring out the best way to use this site. View all 5 project logs. Create an account to leave a comment. Log In. Alastair Young. Become a member to follow this project and never miss any updates. About Us Contact Hackaday. By using our website and services, you expressly agree to the placement of our performance, functionality, and advertising cookies.
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Max 25 alphanumeric characters. OK, I'm done! Join this project. Similar projects worth following. View Gallery. The firmware connects it to the smart home setup and reports its set temperature by reading the changes from the the knob, a quadrature encoder. It also simulates knob movements to keep everything synchronized with Home Assistant and Alexa. Honeywell nowadays sells a WiFi enabled thermostat very similar to this decade-old one, but: This one works when the cloud doesn't.
I rent this place so I want this hack to be reversible. The smart version is quite expensive. What's the fun of that??? The original hardware: The original thermostat is quite clever. View all details. This cake was not a lie Imagination aside, I decided I will add a circular piece of this material between the thermostat mount plate and the wall, to further isolate the heat from the microcontroller from affecting the thermostat.
So far it seems to be working perfectly. It's not a hack if you did not use the hot melt glue gun. Similar Projects. A fermentation controller for doing multi-step fermentation with web reporting and control.
Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Method 1. Purchase a replacement thermostat that will work with your system. Review the compatibilities listed on the packaging of the replacement thermostat. Most replacement thermostats are compatible with all common systems. However, if your system is unique, finding a replacement thermostat may be difficult. Here are your basic options information that should be easily found on the packaging :  X Research source "Works with 1 stage heating or cooling" : Used when you have separate heating and air conditioning units "Works with 2 stage or multi-stage heating or cooling" : Used for heating or cooling units that have designated high and low speeds "Works with Direct Line Voltage ": Used with or direct current power sources to power the thermostat generally seen in older homes "Works with 24mV" : Used with fireplaces, floors, or wall furnaces "Zoned HVAC" : Used when both heating and cooling are individually controlled in different areas from the same system.
Review the manufacturer instructions for wiring your replacement thermostat. Most thermostats utilize similar installation methods; however, it's beneficial to read all materials and preview all pictures provided for how to install your new thermostat. Or you risk literally being stuck in the cold!
Reading instructions is a total drag, yes. But this is not something you want to mess up! Read them and study the pictures. You want yours to match detail for detail. Shut off the power to your thermostat. Turn the switches off at the breaker box that pertain to your thermostat, furnace and air conditioner.
Turning off the power to the thermostat reduces the chances of electrical injuries as you remove the old thermostat and install the new one. Remove the old thermostat from the wall. Most thermostats slide upward from where they are attached to the wall. Loosen the screws that attach the wall plate to the wall, if there is one.
Some thermostats have a base and sub-base. You need to remove the entire thermostat -- all you should be left with is exposed wires and a bare wall, nothing else. If the wires you expose are corroded and there is enough wire length, re-strip the wires. Otherwise, scrape the ends with a utility knife until they are shiny. Pay attention to how the old thermostat was wired as you disconnect it. This is the most important step.
Most thermostats wires are coded, but some if done by an amateur previously can be coded incorrectly. To make sure you're doing it right: With a piece of tape, write a letter on each wire, matching the letter of the connection on the thermostat base. If the blue wire was in connection B, write "B" on the piece of tape, and put the tape on the wire.
Label or designate any wires that were loose and unconnected to your thermostat as well. Ignore the colors of wires, except for your own identification purposes. Thermostats wired by non-professionals do not usually adhere to codes, so the colors may not match what they should.
Keep the disconnected wires hanging out of the wall. Tie the wires together or tape them to the wall to keep them from falling back into the wall. A lost wire will turn this rather easy process into quite the debacle. Pro tip? Wrap all the wires around a pencil. The weight of the pencil is just enough to keep the wires from going anywhere. Install the replacement wall plate. Use the new wall plate as a template to mark where the holes you need to drill for the screws will be.
Use a level if necessary. Then, drill the holes, and screw the replacement wall plate into its new position on the wall. If your new thermostat has a mercury tube that is to say, if your new thermostat is rather old school , your device needs to be completely level or it won't render accurate readings.
Using a level is very important in this scenario and is not just for aesthetic reasons. Make sure you're drilling holes that match the size of your screws. Your thermostat definitely comes with screws, and probably comes with anchors. Make sure to use the anchors, too. They support the system on the wall.
Hook up the thermostat to the wires. Use your notes or labels to re-connect the wires to the thermostat — or, follow the pictures you took of the pre-existing wiring. You can twist the wires onto the thermostats connectors, or follow the directions manual provided by the manufacturer. Your new thermostat should have the same corresponding code on the back, unless otherwise noted in the instructions.
If you're at all in doubt, contact a heating and cooling company. Some thermostats are as simple as a two-wire system. Some have 5. If you have empty ports or connections, don't worry. Your thermostat is most likely fine. Place the thermostat on the wall. Replace all wires back into the wall, if extra length is exposed. Place the thermostat flush against the wall, slightly above the wall plate. Slide it down so it catches the grooves or screws on the wall plate to sit in place. If your thermostat isn't in a good location it's exposed to drafts or heat, which can mess up the readings, or it's too high or low for you , you'll need to contact a professional to have wires moved.
Activate the power back to the thermostat, furnace and air conditioner. Switch on the proper switches in the breaker box to restore power. Give it a minute to kick on. And don't forget to install the batteries! Most systems require 2 AA batteries to work. Make sure the batteries aren't old, they're in place, and the polarities are correct. Check to make sure your replacement thermostat is working.
Set the thermostat so the furnace and the air conditioner will come on at different times. Give your furnace and air conditioner at least 5 minutes each time to activate. If the thermostat does not work properly, retrace your steps to see where you made a mistake. You may need to hit the reset button on your new thermostat. Some will not start until this button is pushed. Program your thermostat. Each type of thermostat is different, so read your manual if you have questions.
Just remember that a programmable thermostat can save you loads of money -- have it be cooler when you're gone and warmer when you're there. It'll turn off without you, saving you money and saving energy to boot! Method 2. Make sure your car has cooled down. It won't be a good day if you singe off your eyebrows and get third-degree burns on your hands, so turn off your car and let it cool down before you open up the hood and get to work.
Let it sit for at least an hour before you start dissecting its parts. It's not a dumb idea to protect yourself with goggles or gloves, either. If you don't want anything getting in your eyes or your hands getting covered in gunk, get out the protective gear. And, of course, a shirt you don't mind smudging with grease or oil. Drain the antifreeze out of your car. The thermostat and radiator hose are linked to your car's cooling system; if you don't drain out the coolant, you're gonna get water everywhere when you start disassembling.
Here's how: Place a bucket or some sort of container underneath your radiator. You'll have somewhere between 4 to 8 cups of fluid pouring out, so don't skimp on the size of your container. At the bottom of the radiator, there should be a draining screw or cap technically, it's a radiator drain cock.
Definitely make sure your new thermostat can handle your HVAC system, specifically the heat pump portion. The newer wi-fi enabled thermostats can be very expensive. I actually installed a Nest thermostat in our house and like it a lot. If so, you should be able to add shutoffs to the sink. If you get your heat pump serviced annually this would a fantastic question for your HVAC person.
Of course there are a few extra things to do like making the cut square but you can totally do this. I am told I have a dual pump system or something to that effect. Your video said to choose either gas or electric. What if we have a dual system. I replaced my thermostat last year.
The guy told me a fuse in the furnace probably blew when i changed the thermostat. It is a small fuse like the ones in cars. I went to an auto store and bought some. He told me where it was in the furnace and when i replaced it…it worked. Just an FYI is this happens to any of your viewers. The AC guy says this is common when you replace a thermostat. Thanks Steve in Missouri. Hi Jeff, i tried to replace my old Honeywell thermostat with new one, but the old connection between the Relay Box BDR91 is not correct.
A-B-C connection points are left not connected. I have an old digital thermostat which showing the wrong temperature but is attached a hard wire sensor. What kind of thermostat I have to buy?. I do not like to change on the smart thermostat. Can you give me any advice, please? Thanks for any help. Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Browse template styles. Interior DIY Projects. Add more insulation, install better windows, get a more efficient HVAC system, etc.
I wanted to show you this tutorial so you could see how easy this project is to do. You can get the same one and instantly start saving money. July 18, at am. Jeff Patterson says:. July 18, at pm. July 19, at am. Ryan says:. July 20, at am. July 20, at pm. July 22, at am. August 14, at am. Mike Ruf says:. July 19, at pm. Jimmy says:. Steve says:. Amir says:. April 3, at pm. Andrew says:. November 13, at am. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published.
Previous Ceiling Fan Light Repair. Beginner Curbless Shower Waterproofing Be the first to join our step-by-step course for building curbless showers No thank you. If you have a similarly connected thermostat, you are in luck as Sonoff Basic will be enough to do the trick. Before we start connecting the wires, we have to add a temperature sensor DHT11 to the mix.
Make sure you have Tasmota firmware flashed to your Sonoff device I have an excellent flashing guide here and your Tasmota-enabled Sonoff is configured correctly also already covered by me. Now, all you have left is to connect the DHT11 sensor to the Sonoff and configure it for temperature reporting.
I will make a nice and shiny enclosure once my 3D printer arrives. I paid extra attention to how I wire the Sonoff, as I have to make sure that the live wire connects to the signal wire on the other end of the Sonoff device. The Honeywell unit has the load resistor R built inside which limits the current.
Once I had the wires ready, it was time to flip the main power off and wire the Sonoff back. The wife has been convinced and I can focus on the functionality and clearing any bugs that will happen. The good thing is that the original thermostat is still working. If I turn it up, it will override the Sonoff Tasmota based one. This should be a great backup for any unexpected events.
I came across this design online. It needs 5 payloads to be set, which is just not how node alike design works. It took me some time to figure out the best way of passing all that information over to update the widget and keep it functional. For now, it is what it is. Just run the command to set the frequency in sec:. Keeping frequency high will cause the heating to fire more frequently for shorter periods of time, so refrain from setting it to 10 sec for other than testing purposes.
The MQTT node pulls the data from:. To limit the errors, I added the smooth node to average the results and updated the flow variable: NodeRED:. The only exception is the slider, which for obvious reason responds instantly.
Testing revealed that an additional slider update slider pushes the target temperature is needed. On top of this, I want the slider to get into the correct position if multiple web interfaces are in place. To do this, every 5 sec I simply update the slider position to a current target temperature. The relay controller is simple, it takes for now two inputs. There is no need for an instant action, so for the simplicity, it runs on the same 5sec update frequency as the rest of the flow.
Instead of automatically assuming a response I have generated one as I want the ability to query the set temperature. In principle, msg. If you are new to Alexa and NodeRed, be sure to read this. I decided to pass the acknowledgements separate I know this is not the best way to be able to control it all a little bit better. Properly each response should be given at the end of the command chain. Mine is risking not returning errors should these happen.
Note, that to be consistent, I only update the variables, while the refresh loop, pushes the new values over to the widget.
Find Old thermostat stock images in HD and millions of other royalty-free stock photos, illustrations and vectors in the Shutterstock collection. Older thermostats typically last about ten years, but they can have a much longer lifespan depending on the make and model. Because, like your. If you're ready to replace your old thermostat with a shiny new smart thermostat, read our 6 tips first to ensure a smooth upgrade process!